How to GUNPLA

November 29, 2010 at 5:27 pm | Posted in How-to | Leave a comment
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After building plenty of model kits down the years, I decided to come up with this basic gunpla-building workflow. It’s not an absolute workflow that you must follow, rather a summary of how I do things. Some steps may not apply, depending on how I want my model kit to look like. It’s a long read, but hopefully someone will find it useful. So here goes:

1. Snapfit your model
Sounds simple enough, just follow the instruction manual. This is where you get acquainted with your model kit. As you build, you should take note of which parts need to have the seam-line fixed, which parts need coloring, masking or modification. Since I usually disassemble the kit again after snap-fitting, its better not to snap-fit the parts too tightly.

2. Disassemble and apply modification/fixes
After snap-fitting and identifying which parts need fixing or modification, I disassemble the kit and sort according to color. Then I do the following to the individual parts:
i) Clean up the nip marks
ii) Fix seam lines
iii) Apply structural modifications (battle damage, cutting off parts etc.)
iv) Mask parts that require different color

3. Priming and painting
For priming, I use a spray can (Mr. White Surfacer etc.) and I usually do it for parts in which the molded color is totally different from what I want. For example, if the original plastic is molded in red, and I wanted to paint it white. So its better to cover up the red with a layer of primer & then paint it white, rather than painting many layers of white color to cover up the red (in which case it will most probably end up pink). There’s other reasons to prime your whole kit: it supposedly makes the paint stick easier to the kit surface & also allows you to identify scratches or imperfections on your kit. But for economical reasons, I use the primer sparingly.
For painting, I mostly use spray cans (Mr. Color, Tamiya) and hand painting. Before spraying, I attach the model parts to a bamboo stick and then stick them on to a polystyrene block (the white packaging stuff inside boxes). Then depending on weather, I do my spraying outside, layer by layer.

4. Apply decals
After all the parts are painted with the appropriate color, its time to apply decals. I started out using the stickers that came with the kit, but now I use mostly waterslide decals. For me it’s important to match the decal with the overall color scheme of the kit. So if I wanted a weathered and battle damaged look, I would also apply some scratches to the decal (subtly, of course).
Some people would recommend spraying a layer of gloss topcoat before applying decals, but I skip this step. Instead I apply the gloss topcoat AFTER I apply the decals. This is to protect your decals from the next step, which is panel lining and weathering.

5. Add panel lines
I already wrote an explanation on how to apply panel lines in my previous post. Also in the previous step, it’s better to use gloss coat before applying panel lines because applying flat topcoat might cause unwanted smears or smudges that are harder to wipe off.

6. Add weathering effects
This step is optional, depending on what final outcome of the kit that you want. For weathering, I usually apply the wash method using enamel paints. Basically I just apply a layer of enamel paint all over the kit surface (including those with decals), and this also fills the seam lines. So if I applied this wash method, then I skip step 5.
Other weathering effects you can do include:
i) Dry brushing
ii) Add paint chipping effects
iii) Apply touch up using weathering pastels

7. Final topcoat and assembly
After you’re done with all the previous steps, its time to apply a final layer of topcoat; gloss, semi-gloss or flat depends on you. You can either apply the topcoat on the separate parts or you can do it after you assemble your kit. And that’s it for the building part

8. Photography
What you want to do with your kit after you’re done with it is up to you. You can play with it all you want, its YOUR kit. But for me, I take photos of them and post them here. Even if you don’t take photos of them, posing your kits for display is important too. Too often I see gunpla kits in Barbie-doll poses and that just makes me sad.

Geara Zulu

May 30, 2010 at 11:34 pm | Posted in 1/144 scale | 3 Comments
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Introduction

My first ‘real’ kit after a long while. Unlike most of my previous gunpla purchases which went straight to storage after purchase, I started with this kit a few weeks right after I got it. After shopping around for some Kotobukiya & Wave option parts and some spray cans, I went straight to building. The Geara Zulu already had plenty of WWII Germany designs & references, so I decided to give it the final touch by adding the proper decals and color scheme of a WWII German war machine.

Materials & Methods

Building was pretty uncomplicated, and the only seam lines that need fixing are at the shoulders and back part of the lower legs. I also added some detail parts and other modifications which are summarised in the following image:

For coloring, I decided to replace the light green with Dark Gray (Mr. Color 32) and the dark green parts with German Gray (Mr. Color 40). A layer of primer was sprayed on the parts before the layers of paint were sprayed on. For the joints, thrusters and yellow parts, I sprayed them with gun metal (Tamiya). The only tedious task was painting the black and white parts at the chest and wrists. If you don’t have a very sharp blade, masking these parts using Tamiya tape or any other tape would be verrry frustrating.

With painting completed, it was time to apply decals. I finally get to use some Nazi Germany decals I bought from various hobby shows. I actually spent 2 days for decalling, mainly because I was being indecisive when picking and choosing the decals. When I was finally satisfied, I went ahead and applied scratches to the decals. Why, do you ask? It’s to provide some sort of realism to the weathered look I was going for. To do that, I used my hobby blade to scratch parts of the decals. The key here is not to overdo it, and also having Mr Mark Setter definitely helps a lot. Then I sprayed a layer of gloss clear coat to protect the decals.

The last part is the weathering. For this I applied the wash method, using yellow+brown enamel paints. To simulate paint chipping, I applied bits of silver paint on the torso and hip areas. For the same effect on the limbs, I used some grey paint. All these paint chipping effect were applied using a very fine brush and a toothpick. And finally the kit was given a final spray of flat topcoat. This has to be one of my fastest builds.

Results

 

These last few pics were taken with the SHCM-Pro Unicorn. Yes I realize in the anime the Zulu couldn’t even stand up to a ReZEL, let alone a Unicorn. But still I decided to make the poses of the Zulu pwning the Unicorn. This post is about the Zulu, after all.

Discussion

Regarding the kit, the elbow and knee joints can only bend 90 degrees; disappointing but not unexpected. Design-wise it is very appealing (to me at least), the only gripe was the jagged eyeline (which I removed) and the relatively slim torso. I would have preferred a wider chest, but modifying that from scratch would be too troublesome. But anyway, I’m quite pleased with my results, except for the springs near the knees. That didn’t work out too well.

As for photography, my cheap tripod died out on me, so I had to resort to using flash to compensate for the lighting. I still haven’t got the hang of flash photography yet, so there’ s plenty of obvious shadows or shaded areas.

HCM Pro Geara Doga

September 23, 2009 at 1:06 am | Posted in HCM Pro | 8 Comments
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I got this way back last year and it has been sitting in its box since. After I’m done with this one, there’s another 3 HCM Pro models waiting in line. Anyway, the Geara Doga has everything that appeals to me: it’s green, mean and armed to the teeth. Like most of my HCM Pro models, I felt compelled to add some panel lining. I also took it a step further by applying some decals on the shields and leg. After a generous coat of topcoat, I added panel lines and weathering via the wash method with enamel paints. And to top it off, I added paint chipping effect by applying some silver paint via a toothpick. For the photography, I used my recently constructed DIY softbox with a white background and my 50mm macro lens. Amazingly, all of this is done in a day. I can’t say the same for my ongoing project though, the VF-25S Messiah.  Hope you enjoy the pics

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