Tags: ジムセミストライカー, custom paint, GM Semi Striker, kitbash, P-Bandai, plaplate
The GM Semi striker has long been on my to-build list. I purchased a HGUC GM II kit and some GM Striker parts from Yellow Submarine with plans to make my own GM Semi Striker. But then Bandai released the official HGUC GM Striker kit on the Premium Bandai website and so I gave up on my original plans and bought the P-Bandai kit.
Although the GM Semi Striker looked nice out of the box, I wanted to add more ‘Striker’ elements to its design. The secondary aim was to improve the looks and proportion of this kit.
Materials & methods:
To read about the changes I made to the kit, click here.
For painting, I went for a very simple color scheme: the GM command colony type colors. It involves only two colors: dark grey for the feet and torso, and a kind of pale khaki for the rest of the body. I mixed my own paints as follows:
- Torso & feet: ~60% German gray + ~30% white + ~10% orange yellow
- The rest the body: ~80% white + ~10% yellow brown + ~10% smoke gray
For the joints & hands I sprayed Dark Grey (2) from a spray can. The weapons were painted with various combinations of German Grey, Light gull gray, and gunmetal also from spray cans.
After all parts were painted, I proceeded to apply some decals which are mostly warning & numeric types. Then I sprayed gloss topcoat over the parts with decals, and this was followed by an enamel wash using black enamel.
Some additional light weathering were applied, mostly paint scratch and rust effects. After that it’s the final flat topcoat layer. Like the HGUC GM III, I attached some reflective mirror finishes on the left shoulder and forehead sensors, then dabbed some clear enamel paints on them.
Some action poses:
And some group photos. The modifications I made means that this GM Semi Striker is the tallest GM kit I have.
Since I outfitted the GM Semi Striker with Hobby Base hands, I thought I’d pose it with some Little Armory weapons.
Overall, I felt that I have accomplished what I set out to do with this project. The GM Semi Striker now looks nicer, to my eyes at least. My only regret was not modifying the elbow. It looks a bit weird when bent. Even though the proportions were improved, it’s still not the most posable and flexible kit I have. It therefore wasn’t easy to pose it with the twin beam spear.
To conclude, I have no regrets purchasing this P-Bandai GM Semi Striker kit. It was a lot of fun modifying it to look how I want. Now I have to think about what to do with my abandoned GM II kit…
Tags: GM II, GM Semi Striker, HGUC, kitbash, P-Bandai, plaplate, work in progress
I have thought about converting my HGUC GM II into the Semi Striker by using some GM Striker parts, but then Bandai released the official HGUC GM Semi Striker kit on its P-Bandai website. Being the lazy person that I am, I decided to buy one for the sake of convenience. But that doesn’t mean that this will be an Out of Box build, as you will read below:
Head: The face feels a bit long, so I decided to shave the chin off a little bit. You can see the difference this makes compared to the original GM II head:
Torso: I added some plaplate & square plate on various positions on the chest to mimic the GM Striker design. The waist was elongated by a sheet of 1.2mm and 1mm plaplate.
Arms: Elongated the bicep using 1.2mm plaplate and added some panel lines on the forearms. Also attached some 0.5mm plaplate strips at the wrist.
Waist: Drilled some shallow holes on the front skirt and crotch. Added some parts from MS Armor on the front and side skirts. Glued 1.2mm plaplate on the peg to accommodate the elongated hip.
At the back, I attached a square plate and a bracket to hold a combat knife from Kotobukiya’s MSG Knife Set.
Legs: Lengthened the thighs by gluing 2mm square pipes at the top.
I didn’t like the original lower legs so I replaced them with more bulky ones from my HGUC Hazel II kit. On the back of the knees there’s a large, empty gap. So I covered it with a sheet of 1mm corrugated plaplate. I also glued 1.2mm plaplate on the bottom of the knee joints. On the lower leg, I filled the gap with epoxy putty and glued a piece of 0.5mm plaplate cut to resemble the GM Striker.
I kept the original feet but used a double ball joint to connect them to the legs. On the ankle guard I glued a strip of 0.5mm plaplate.
Backpack: I decided to use the GM Striker backpack which was actually a spare part from the kit. Modified the peg so that it attaches to the body and stuck a polycap on the right side to attach the beam spear. I used the original backpack verniers.
Weapons: The kit comes with the standard GM II beam rifle, which I chucked out almost immediately. I decided to use the small rifle included in the MS Option Set 1. Modified it a bit by attaching the magazine from the Jesta beam carbine and attaching a plastic pipe on the barrel.
I also have a forearm shield that came with Gundam Ace magazine. The peg fits nicely on the GM Semi Striker’s left forearm, so no modifications were needed.
Here’s the overall look before priming & painting. I’m thinking of painting it in GM Command (colony type) colors.
Tags: customize, How-to, plaplate
Ever noticed that some parts of your
body gunpla feel a bit short? Well worry no more. With a few tools & materials, you can extend any part of your gunpla to your heart’s desire. Most of what I describe below applies to 1/144 HG kits. While it’s theoretically applicable to MG or RG kits, the presence of the inner frame will most likely complicate matters.
First, you need the following tools & materials:
- Styrene sheet/plaplate: The raw material for lengthening parts. Use >1mm thick ones for more effectiveness
- Modelling saw: Get one with a good grip
- Cement/glue: Standard modelling cement
- Putty: Polyester and/or basic putty to fill gaps
- Marker: Fine tip marker for labeling
- Hobby cutter//hobby blade//file//sandpaper: For trimming excess plastic
The premise is pretty simple: attach the plaplate sheet to the part you want to lengthen. I tend do it for the limbs (arms & legs) and the lower abdomen, but there’s no limit to what you can do. There’s two ways to approach this, depending on the part to be elongated.
1) Terminal extension
This method applies if the part to be lengthened has a flat, even surface at either end. For example the waist or bicep parts. In this case one can simply glue the plaplate at one end. The plaplate doesn’t have to be the exact same size with the original part.
Once the glue has dried, trim the excess plastic using a hobby cutter or blade. If the plaplate covers a hole that is needed for a ball joint or peg, simply make a new hole on the plaplate using a drill or blade. Keep in mind that you might also need to extend the peg where the part will be attached to.
2) Cut and paste
For situations where it is not possible to attach the plaplate to the end of the part, it may be necessary to cut the said part in half and glue the plaplate in the middle.
This method requires a little planning beforehand. First, identify the position to cut; it’s going to be where the plaplate will be attached. Then draw some lines that go across the cutting line using a marker. This alignment line will be used to align the two parts after the plaplate is attached. Refer to the figure below:
Use the modelling saw to cut the part in half, following the cutting line. Then glue the plaplate at one end of the cut part, like so:
Next, glue the other half to it, making sure to align the parts along the alignment line. If everything went well, it should look like this:
The next course of action would be to trim the excess plaplate using the tool of your choice. If there are visible gaps between the parts, just fill them up with polyester or basic putty.
It may sound like a daunting task, but if done right, it can make a significant difference on how your pla model will look. Practice makes perfect, so try it on some experimental unit to get the hang of it. Good luck…