HGUC Juaggu – Work in progress

June 20, 2017 at 01:28 | Posted in Work In Progress | 3 Comments
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For this build, I’ll be using the MSV version of the Juaggu, obtained from P-Bandai website. So as always let’s go through it part by part:

Head:
Unlike most gunpla, the Juaggu’s head is huge. That leaves a lot of space for modifications. I decided to stick a beam axe from the HG Jahanam kit in the middle, resulting in a mohawk-like hairdo. I trimmed off some parts of the beam axe to make it fit to the head.

Here’s what it looks like with the clear part attached:

I decided to supplement the Juaggu’s elephant-ish design by attaching a pair of tusks. They’re actually the shoulder spikes from my HGBF Gouf R35.

For the monoeye, I drilled a hole at the original spot and attached the lens socket from MS Lens.

 

Arms:
The main difference between the MSV version and the regular release is the arm. The MSV version has a regular right arm and a triple cannon left arm. I replaced the right hand with 1/100 Zeon type hands from MS Hands. Also decided to procure the pincer claws from the HG Mobile Worker kit.

Seam lines were very obvious on the shoulders. Instead of removing them using the usual method, I attached a strip of pla-plate in the middle of the seam line to hide it.

 

Legs:
The legs are the one thing that I just have to replace. The original ones look like a water hose from a washing machine. I wasn’t sure which legs to replace them with, so I browsed through dalong.net and narrowed it down to Hygogg or Mobile Worker legs. I made a rough mockup of how they would look like and decided to go for the Hygogg legs.

To attach the Hygogg legs to the Juaggu, I removed the original Juaggu hip joint and attached a ball joint socket from Hobby Base.

I also decided to use different types of feet for this, so I used the leftover Gallus-J feet. I trimmed of the toes a little bit and used more Hobby Base ball joints & sockets to attach them to the Hygogg legs.

So that’s about all the mods I did for this one. For painting, I’ll stick to the original Juaggu color scheme.

Zaku Cannon – Work in progress

February 28, 2017 at 22:04 | Posted in Work In Progress | 1 Comment
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The Zaku Cannon has been a work in progress for quite some time now. After many delays and revisions, I finally decided on the final look. This build is a combination of several HG kits, a Zaku Cannon resin kit and the old MSV Zaku Cannon kit.

Head:

I used the head from the HGUC Zaku II (Johnny Ridden) kit as the base. To it, I glued the mouthpiece from the Zaku Cannon resin kit.

zakucan-wip_01

On the top of the head, I glued the forehead sensor from my HGUC Ground Gundam. At the back of the head, I removed some bits that hold the power cable and added an antenna from the MSV Zaku Cannon kit.

zakucan-wip_02

Chest:

For the top part of the chest, I used the part from the resin kit. I drilled a bigger hole on it to accommodate the shoulder joints, which were from HGBC Bolden Arms Arms. The neck joint is just simply a leftover polycap joint. At the bottom, I attached a ball-joint socket (Hobbybase) to attach it to the hips.

zakucan-wip_03  zakucan-wip_04

The midriff is another leftover part from my Char’s Zaku II Origin kit. I attached additional plaplate to add more length and girth.

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Hips:

The hip was from another Zaku II Origin kit but I replaced the orignal polycap socket with the one from Hobby Base. On the front skirt armor, I attached some leftover parts from the Efreet Nacht resin kit.

zakucan-wip_06

Arms:

I used the resin kit shield on the right shoulder. I glued a socket from a HGUC Zaku II F2 shield to attach it to the shoulder. In addition, I glued some plaplate along the edges and within the shield to add some girth and detail, respectively.

zakucan-wip_07
On the left shoulder, I used the MSV kit shoulder armor. I replaced the original spikes with the ones from MS Spike. To make a rough surface, I smothered the part with basic putty and using a worn toothbrush, I made random strokes over the surface.

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To attach the shield to the shoulder, I used the joint from a RG Zaku kit.

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The arms were from the HG Gouf R35 kit. The biceps were elongated by 1.2mm and the gaps on the forearm were filled with epoxy putty.

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Legs:

This was the part where I had the most problems. In the end, I took the easy way out and just used the HG Bugu legs. No mods except for the thighs. I covered up the panel lines with basic putty.
zakucan-wip_13

Weapons:

All the main weapons for this kit are attached to the backpack, which is from the resin kit. The main cannon was actually the Bigwig cannon that came included with a very old edition of Dengeki Hobby magazine. It’s supposed to be a huge cannon, but at 1/400 scale, it fits nicely on the shoulder of my 1/144 Zaku Cannon. To attach it to the backpack, I used several joints and the dog leg from GM Sniper K9.

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The side cannons are from the MSV kit. I used a series of joints from Kotobukiya MSG and HGBC Bolden Arm Arms to connect them to the backpack.

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On the left side of the backpack, I attached something that resembles a smoke grenade disperser on tanks.

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Lastly, I modified a Zaku machinegun from the HGUC Zaku Sniper kit. I attached a vernier at the muzzle and added the stock from the Zaku Sniper rifle.

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The completed kit can now be viewed here.

HGUC Galluss K – Work in progress

December 11, 2016 at 17:57 | Posted in Work In Progress | 4 Comments
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The initial plan for this Galluss-K project is to kitbash the HGUC Schuzrum Galluss with an older HG 1/144 Gallus-J kit. That plan changed when I bought a Galluss-K resin kit conversion at the C3 hobby show. You’d think that this will then be a straight-forward job, but it turned out not to be the case. Now let’s get started:

Head:
From the figure below, I had three heads to choose from. I couldn’t decide between the Galluss J or K heads, so I kept both.

galluss-k_wip_01

I had to remove some excess plastic from the Galluss-J head to accommodate the internal parts from the Schuzrum Galluss head.

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I trimmed off the original monoeye from the Schuzrum Galluss part and attached a round plate. Onto that I will attach a clear pink lens from Wave.

galluss-k_wip_03

 

Arms:
The shoulder armor is from the resin kit, but I replaced the spikes with the ones from Kotobukiya MSG.

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The arms are from the HGUC kit, but I had to remove the ‘sleeves’. I simply covered that part with putty and sanded it out.

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Body:
The backpack consists of several huge chunks of resin. The resin kit didn’t come with any verniers, but fortunately I had plenty of spares lying around.

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Another problem is that the original polycap joints in the HGUC body might not be able to support the backpack weight, leading to some balance issues. Therefore I decided to use the sturdier double ball joints from Hobby Base. I attached it to the upper body with some epoxy putty.

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To connect the double joint to the hips, I attached a small pipe wrapped in epoxy putty to where the original polycap was. That way the body can still swivel sideways.

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I had to trim some of the HGUC groin parts to accommodate the new resin part.

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Likewise for the back part. In this case I had to remove a large chunk of the back skirt armor in order to attach the resin part.

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Legs:
The thighs are from the HGUC kit, but I attached some plaplate to hide the joint that connects the leg to the body.

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I had to cut off the HGUC knee from the shin armor and attach the resin knee to the HGUC shin armor.

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The rest of the leg is just attaching resin parts to the HGUC legs.

 

Weapons:
The resin kit comes with a shoulder mounted cannon and two forearm mounted cannons. I decided not to use the resin shoulder cannon and instead used the rifle from the HG Jahanam kit, with some modifications of course. First I cut off the rounded muzzle and replaced it with a rectangular vent. Then I cut off the grip and replaced it with a joint from Kotobukiya MSG.

galluss-k_wip_12

 

In addition to the above mods, I had to perform extra work on the resin parts. First, I soaked them in soapy water followed by a light scrub to remove any excess chemicals on the surface. As I was test fitting, I noticed some surfaces of the resin were uneven. I remedied it using some basic putty and lots of sanding. I didn’t want any resin powder flying around in my room so I did wet sanding instead.
To bind the resin pieces together, super glue is often adequate. But to reinforce the binding, I inserted a metal rod or pin on one half of a resin part. That metal pin is then inserted into a hole I drilled on the other half.

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So here’s what it looked like before painting:

galluss-k_wip_14 galluss-k_wip_15

For reference, here’s what was on display when I bought the resin kit.

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